Saturday, July 30, 2011

Jun Ming Xuan

This new Chinese restaurant at Beaufort Park is a real find. Consanguinous with the Man Chui chain, it attempts a more elevated and authentic pitch in the world of Cantonese cuisine, as the large number of Chinese customers (particularly at lunch time for the Dim Sum) testifies. Presided over by the scrupulous and devoted Dennis Kem Kwan, this is a real find. There is a reasonable wine list, much better than Man Chui III, and some of the dishes fall into the 'best ever' category. The barbecued duck is extraordinary. The chicken feet are also exemplary, as are the whelks, and the dumplings are magisterial. Thanks to Dennis, I have now tried jelly fish, getting my own back for all those stings when I was a child. I am not sure, however, that my desire for revenge will reassert itself frequently. The revelation that jelly fish are crunchy is just too weird to take. I may content myself with the venison, the goat, the crocodile and the ostrich dishes.

To note: the restaurant currently does not take cards, which is a pity, as it is certainly not cheap. Count on £100 for two in the evening to be safe. At lunchtime, however, it is very much cheaper, in my experience. Your humble servant and son had a booze-free lunch at £25 for two. Recommended with enthusiasm.

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