Sunday, September 4, 2011

Man Chui III - the empire of King Kwong

Robert Kwong is the nicest man in the world. He loves his job, and has the knack of inspiring the team of waiters and waitresses at Man Chui III to give of their best.

His presence in the kitchen transforms the quality of the food (which can be uninspiring on a bad evening) into something superb. Take this sea-bass, for example. Robert chose the fish at the market on Tuesday, and it was as fresh as could be when it hit our table. Simply prepared in soy sauce and spring onions, it was an absolute delight. On this occasion, Robert, taking the place of the tableside virtuoso, Tommy, deboned the fish with a few deft strokes and looked very pleased with his work indeed.

Man Chui III is actually a fabulously successful restaurant and, although not in the same class as Jun Ming Xuan (see my post) as far as the food is concerned, it is cheaper, the service is better and it is just the place for a large party or reunion. The wine list is hit and miss, but the house white is very drinkable and very good value. All in all, a restaurant to visit, revisit, and make your own. There are treasures in the menu, and you will find them. Quickly, if you ask Robert to help you.

84 Ballards Lane,
London N3 2DL

020 8349 2400

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